• Puppies and dogs tend to do best on a schedule as it teaches them when they can relieve themselves. Puppies can hold their bladder for one hour for every month of age. In order to ensure no accidents occur make sure to not take longer between bathroom breaks than they can hold in.

• Choose one bathroom spot outside and always take your puppy to that spot . When the puppy is about to relieve themselves, use a specific phrase or word before they do so to remind them what to do. 

• Praise or give treats immediately after the relieve themselves correctly as this teaches them they are doing the right thing. Ensure a reward after they are done as puppies are easily distracted and may forget to finish until they are back home. 

• Feeding the dog consistently will help ensure that they relive consistently. 

• Remove the water near the dog about 2 and half hours before bedtime to reduce risk of them needing to relieve themselves during the night. Puppies can sleep 7 hours without needing a bathroom break.

• Always supervise a dog when they are indoor, if they are in the process of being potty trained to ensure they dont soil indoors. If the dog is not fully potty trained, ensure to keep the dog on a 6 foot leash inside and in the yard (which should be treated the same as a room) if the dog is not actively potty training or playing. When the owner can't supervise, restrict the dog to an area like a crate which is so small that the dog would not want to relive itself. Watch out for signs that the dog needs to relieve itself such as barking or scratching at the door, squating, restless, sniffing around or circling. If the dog does any of these signs ensure to take it to its bathroom spot.

• Mistakes are bound to happen. When mistakes are made, ensure to calmly take the dog to their outside bathroom. If the dog finishes there, ensure to praise them and reward them. Don't punish the dog as it will do more harm than good. Ensure to clean the area thoroughly as dogs are highly motivated to continue if they smell smells of urine of feces 

Teaching them to eliminate inside may prolong potty training. Dogs may get used to eliminating on a specific surface which may create certain surface preferences for eliminating meaning even as adults they might eliminate on any piece of that surface they find or that they refuse to eliminate but on that surface.

What not to do:

• When trying to stop excessive barking do not yell, reward any bad habits, or discipline the dog inconsistently as this fails to stop this issue long term. Additionally, don't respond to barking dogs as many dogs bark for attention, food, or to get outside their crate or the house. Wait until your dog is quiet to give them what they want from you. Ensure to provide positive reinforcement when they do the behavior you want.

What to do:

• When looking for a permanent solution for your dog’s excessive barking, it is important to find the root cause and fix it. For example if the root cause is that the dog is bored then providing your dog with something to do might be the solution.

• Dogs may bark at people or dogs if they have not been socialized enough, a dog with positive experiences with many people is less likely to bark at them. 

• Leaving the dog with similar noises such as the TV or the radio may cause the dog to think the owner is present and not bark. In addition to this, closing the blinds before leaving limits your dog's ability to see things which they could bark at. 

• Teaching the quiet command is useful in controlling barking. The quiet command is done by using a calm firm voice to say a command word like “quiet”and to positively reinforce it with treats and affection when the dog obeys the command. You can find a video on how to teach your dog the quiet command under “Dog commands”.

Preventive measures: 

• To avoid barking ensure your dog has adequate amount of physical and mental exercise as dogs who are exhausted are more likely to rest than bark. To make sure your dog has adequate amounts of physical and mental exercise, you can have a dog walker come or walk them yourself.

• Additionally, Interactive toys and mental exercise provides the dog with something to do, which helps prevent any barking related to boredom. A good  example of an interactive toy is a toy where treats are placed in a dog puzzle that the dogs have to solve in order to get the treats.  

Why does my dog wake me up:

Dogs may wake up owners for many reasons which could include boredom, the need to relieve themselves, hunger/thirst, fear, and excitement. Dogs will repeat what works and if waking you up works then they will continue to do it,so owners should ignore attempts of them being woken up until the habit is broken however owners should not ignore attempts of them being woken up if it is behavior you want to reinforce such as waking you to relieve themselves. Your dog may be waking you up as a way of showing stress and anxiety because of some underlying medical condition so ensure to take your dog to a vet if your dog started doing this suddenly or is exhibiting other symptoms. 

Ways to avoid your dog waking you up 

• Try an automatic feeder to take care of feeding your dog to avoid wake up calls related to late night hunger.

• Take your dog on a potty break just before bedtime and ensure that the potty break is long enough for your dog to fully relieve themselves as some dogs like to use the bathroom many times.

• Provide an indoor potty space for your dog to use during the night or a doggy door which gives access to the yard so they can relieve themselves on their own to avoid wake up calls related to need to relieve themselves.

• Ensure that their crate/beed is an quiet area to ensure to that your dog’s sleep isn't disturbed. 

• Give your dog toys to play with at night, especially interactive toys to prevent wakeup calls due to boredom.

• Spend quality time with your dog during the day and allow your dog to sleep near you in order to ensure your dog does not feel neglected which will prevent them for trying to wake you up. 

• Crate training your dog will prevent them from waking up early. 

• Exercise will allow your dog to release their pent up energy and give their body a wanting to relax. Keep morning walks short and ensure that the longer walks are during the afternoon as that will tire your dog out and make them want to relax in the morning and the night.   

It might be a good idea to do activities with your dog as that will provide your dog with the mental stimulation they need and provide a positive outpost for your dog’s extra energy. Some good activities which will wear your dog out are scent games and agility games. Dogs love to work with their owners which is an added benefit of activities where you work with your dog.

Destructive chewing and scratching can be a normal canine activity and can be solved by offering a dog more physical and mental enrichment or it can be much more complex and needs professional advice in order to solve. In order to address destructive chewing and scratching in dogs, it is essential to pay attention to the dog and their behaviours closely as it can indicate why the dog is destroying those items and therefore make it easier for you to stop that behaviour. It is very common that dogs will destroy things while in the process of achieving a completely different goal. Destructive chewing and scratching may be play behaviour, curiosity and natural seeking behaviour, predatory behaviour, escape motivated, and anxiety related behaviour. It's important to know what the dog is destroying, where it is located, whether the dog is targeting loose items that are lying around the house, or a specific type of item such as the owner's clothes, or if the items are in a specific location such as a specific wall in the kitchen. It is also important to know when the dog is destroying the item, whether the dog is destroying the item when you are not paying attention or only when you are leaving home or whether they destroy items whether you are home or not. This can help you limit the opportunities your dog has to destroy the items they do and help you know how to stop this behaviour. Most importantly, any dog that is chewing things up should be evaluated by a veterinarian to rule out any medical issues and rule out if the dog has damage to the teeth and the gum from the chewing items around the house.

Anxiety related destruction: 

•  Dogs that are anxious often destroy items to cope with their situation and they may try to escape which may lead them to get hurt or lost in the process. It is important to check to see if your dog has anxiety if the dog is doing any destructive behaviour as anxiety has many negative effects on dogs.  

Separation anxiety related destruction: 

• If a dog is destroying things when it is alone and the destruction is mainly at the exit areas such as the door, this is an indication of separation anxiety. When this behaviour is noticed it is essential to install cameras to watch the dogs behaviour as quickly as possible. If you notice other anxiety related behaviours, you should bring their dog to a medical professional. However if the dog ruins things when the owner is not home that does not necessarily mean that they have separation anxiety as it can just mean the owner previously told the dog not to do it so they have learned to do it when the owner is not around.

Attention seeking destruction: 

• Dogs who do not receive enough attention may start to do some destructive behaviours to grab the attention of their owners even if it is negative attention. You can fix this by giving your dog more attention and more mental stimulation which can be done through fun activities both of you do together. You can also fix this by ignoring dogs when they do destructive behaviours and rewarding them when they do appropriate behaviours such as playing with their toys. 

Fears and phobias: 

• A dog’s destructive behaviour may be caused by fear of certain things such as loud noises if the destruction occurs when the dog is exposed to the fear.   

Boredom/social isolation related destruction:

•  If a dog destroys items when the owner is home and busy that could mean that the dog is feeling bored or attention seeking so the owner should give its dog a good exercise session.  

Natural canine seeking behaviour related destruction: 

•  If a dog destroys items whether the owners are home or not and the items seem to be random this may indicate natural canine seeking behaviour or that your puppy is going through teething which can be fixed by tidying up the house and ensuing the dog can't reach those items and by ensuring to offer enough enrichment and opportunities for the dog to chew, dig and destroy certain allowed objects.

Predatorial/territorial destruction: 

• Some dogs destroy items next to a window because they can see outside cat, dogs, and squirrels which is play, territorial, or even predator behaviour which is being prevented(“How to Keep Your Dog from Chewing and Scratching Everything”). This will result in a determined dog in ruining the house attempting to get outside. The dog could also be so anxious because of these outside influences that it redirects feelings toward items in your home. A solution for this could be closing off a certain home or putting visual barriers to stop the dog from seeing what they see. At the same time the owner should try teaching the dog different behaviours such as staying calm and sitting on the bed. A positive reinforcement trainer can make a plan to teach the dog alternative behaviour and reward the dog for calm behaviours.

What not to do:

If a dog destroys anything, ensure to never yell at or hit the dog as this will not teach them to stop the behaviour especially if it is after the fact and will certainly have negative consequences. If a dog destroys things because it is anxious then punishment will only make things worse in the long run by making that dog’s anxiety worse and ruining your bond. If you catch your dog in the act of destroying something then call their name and redirect them to a toy instead.

When dogs are given food from the table in the past they’ll become more persistent in asking for it and when a dog barks for food it is also essential to ignore it .Table scraps are not good for dogs and the amount of human food given to a dog should be limited. 

Prevention methods and solutions:

• To prevent a dog from begging for food then they should prevent them from being near the food while people are eating by putting them in another room or a crate. 

• Counter conditioning a dog is another good solution for when dogs start to beg for food the owner should tell them to lie down or fetch a toy.

• To get a dog to stop begging then the owner should teach them to go to a designated spot while eating. In order to do this the owner should designate a bed or spot for them to stay in which should have chew toys and bones to distract them and then teach them the “stay” command or the “go to your spot”  command. Once they go to their spot reward them with treats. Teach this trick to a dog before starting to practise near food. 

• Don't scream or punish the dog for begging and instead reward the dog when it leaves people's food alone. You can find a video on how to teach your dog the the “go to your spot”  command under “dog commands” 

• Ensure that everyone in the house follows the rules set around food for your dog in order for those rules to be properly enforced. 

Ways to prevent your dog from eating stuff of the ground:  

• keep your yard as clean as possible because when a dog finds something to eat out there, it reinforces the dog’s search for food off the ground behaviour which can get addicting in the long run. To make this task easier, fence off a small area and make it dog proof. 

• On walks ensure to scan the environment to protect your dog and only walk in areas where you can see what's in front of you.

• Use a halter head to prevent your dog from quickly eating things from the ground and redirect your dog the moment you notice that they are about to eat from the ground Basket muzzle prevents your dog from eating stuff off the ground however some dogs find it restrictive and a condition process is needed to get them used to it. An alternative to basket muzzle is the outfox field guard which also protects dogs from bugs and potential penetration of fox tails.

• The leave it cue is very valuable to dogs who eat stuff off the ground. The drop it cue is important to stop dogs from eating stuff they have already grabbed. There are videos teaching how owners to teach their dogs to do The “leave it” cue and “drop it” under “Dog’s commands”

• Try to train your dog to do a positive behaviour that replaces the problematic behaviour for example, you can train your dog to keep something in their mouth such as a ball instead of eating from the ground. 

• The addition of environmental enrichment can provide your dog legitimate outlets for your dog's natural inclination to scavenge. There are many toys that can keep your dog entertained as he works to get his food.

When professional help is needed: 

• It's important to rule out medical conditions when a dog is eating stuff off the ground as it sometimes may stem from medical conditions so it is important to take a dog to a vet especially if it is eating non food items. 

• If stress is causing your dog to eat off the ground then it's important to address it so your dog develops better coping skills. This may require professional help.

Jumping on people is a natural canine behaviour. Dogs get to say hello face to face when they jump and its guaranteed to get attention. However to humans jumping is annoying and potentially dangerous especially since seniors and kids can get knocked over. Dogs repeat behaviors that get them rewards and its owners and other people's attention is a reward to a dog. Even negative reactions like yelling are still attention to your dog. Additionally, many dogs see pushing them away as simply you playing with them.

Ways to prevent your dog from jumping on people: 

• In order to stop your dog from jumping on people it is essential to eliminate the associated rewards. This means ensuring that the dog does not get a chance to jump at people as well as training it to greet people in a more appropriate way.

An owner should ignore a dog when it jumps at people but also also teach them what to do instead while also ignoring them.

Dogs are everywhere so preventing dog bites is necessary. Dogs tend to bite when they feel threatened and it's a natural instinct. Dogs may bite to defend themselves, their territory or their family. For example, a mother dog will protect her puppies aggressively.Startling a dog by for example waking it up or approaching it suddenly may lead to a bite. Running away from a dog (even during play) may lead to a bite. The dog may think it's part of the fun or it may trigger a predatory pursuit in some dogs. A dog who is scared (even if it is from something not that scary such as loud noise) may bite anyone who comes near it. Injury and illness are common reasons to get bitten by a dog even if you are one of its favourite people it may not want to be approached by you. It is important for any one who interacts with a dog to understand what may provoke this behaviour. A dog's body language indicates if you are about to get bitten. This includes growling, snapping, raised fur, rigid posture, and rapid tail wagging.

How to stop dog bites: 

• Put your dog through basic training and continue to reinforce these skills throughout its life. 

• Allow your dog to meet and interact with various types of people under calm, controlled, and positive circumstances.

• It is essential to expose a dog to many different situations regularly such as other dogs, large machines, bicycles or anything else that the dog may fear. Start this at the youngest age possible and keep the experiences positive. 

• Pay attention to your dog and know what circumstances may lead to your dog being aggressive. If the situation or the dog's behaviour can not be controlled then remove your dog before things get out of control.

• Don't discipline your dog with violence, shock collars, and loud noises and instead use positive reinforcement as positive reinforcement is far more effective as dogs want to please their people.

• Always keep your dog on a leash or in a fenced area. Make sure that you know your dog well before leaving it unleashed in a specific contained area and keep your dog in your sights at all times.

• Warn others to stay away from your dog if you know your dog is aggressive or easily fearful. Don't allow your dog to approach people and other animals unless the situation is strictly controlled. Use a muzzle if you feel it is necessary.

• Ensure the dog has all its necessary vaccinations especially rabies and visit your visit routinely for wellness checkups(“Use These Tips to Keep Your Dog from Biting”). 

How to interact safely with a dog: 

1. Never approach or touch a dog without its owner's permission. If there is no owner then do not approach it at all.

2. Never approach a dog when they are eating, sleeping, or caring for their puppies as dogs are more likely to be startled and protective in these situations . 

3. Never approach, touch, and move a dog who is injured however ensure to call a veterinarian or a medical professional.

4. When meeting a new dog let the dog come to you. Crouch down or turn to the side while avoiding long periods of eye contact. let the dog sniff your hand before petting.

5. Do not put your face near a dog you do not know 

6. If you are cornered by a dog. Never scream or run and ensure to stay still while avoiding eye contact. When the dog stops paying attention to you, slowly back away

7. If a dog knocks you down, fall to your side and stay in a foetal position while staying still and calm. 

If a dog bites someone: 

• Act quickly. 

• Confine the dog and then help the victim). 

• Help the victim wash her hands with soap and warm water. 

• Seek immediate medical attention.

Mouthing is when a dog puts his teeth and mouth over skin with no pressure from the jaw. Mouthing does not come from fear or frustration but rather when a dog is feeling excited or is playing. Mouthing is normal between dogs however it can become a problem when it is done to humans. Puppies tend to do mouthing because their mouth is how they experience the work around them but adult dogs do it too. However, teaching a puppy to stop mouthing is completely different to teaching an adult dog as puppies are learning bite inhibition while adult dogs are learning appropriate play. However for both puppies and adult dogs, it is a must that you never give mixed signals to your dog by allowing mouthing to some and not others.

Steps to teach a puppy not to mouth: 

1. If a puppy starts to mouth say “ouch’ or another similar word in a surprised and loud tone and remove the part of the mouth they are biting from the dog’s mouth and keep it far away from the dog while also trying to avoid jerky movements as dogs may see these movements as a part of a game.

2. Wait for a few minutes for the dog to calm down and then reach out to touch them again. If your dog mouths again repeat the previous step till the dog stops mouthing.

3. When the dog does not mouth your hand, offer praise and introduce a game like the game of fetch.

Steps to teach an adult dog not to mouth: 

Steps to teach an adult dog are similar to a puppy however the owner should not react or say anything if they begin mouthing you

1. Keep a toy with you or near you and if the dog starts to mouth the owner should quickly give them the toy and play with them.

2. If they continue to mouth you, go neutral and stop engaging. You can give them a verbal marker such as “uh-uh” while they are mouthing as well. Once they stop you can calmly reward them with petting.

Some dogs have a hard time disengaging and will continue to mouth and potentially get more excited. If they get more excited, remove yourself from the situation and wait for them to calm down before engaging again.

Leash pulling is a common issue faced by many dog owners. Below are some techniques to use in order to solve this problem, however different dogs may need different techniques.

Potential techniques to use to stop leash pulling:

• Stopping: As soon as the dog pulls forward and there is tension on the leash, stop and wait for the dog to go from a forward position to a neutral one (there should be some slack in the leash) then move forward again. This technique may take some time for the dog to understand. younger and higher energy dogs struggle more with this technique.

• Leash correction: When there is tension in the leash, gently but firmly pull up on the leash and release it. A couple of leash corrections may be needed before the dog understands he needs to go at your pace. This technique may lead to some physical exercise especially if the dog is heavier or stronger in that case it is recommended to use a training collar/harness. It is also important to keep the dog next to the person who is walking it instead of infront of the person who is walking it because the farther ahead the dog is the harder it will be to use this technique. 

• Changing direction: As the dog begins pulling at the leash turn 180 degrees and go in the opposite direction pulling the dog with you. Continue doing this until the dog stops pulling on the leash. This technique will lead the dog to look up at you because the dog will be confused at your behaviour and be waiting for you to change directions and if it’s looking up at you it can't pull at the leash at the same time. A variation of this technique is to let the dog go out in front of you and as soon as there is pulling, call the dog and walk backwards. Ensure to have a smelly treat in your hand when calling your dog. Once your dog is in hand reach and give your dog the food. Ensure to continue to do this during the walk. This will cause the dog to associate leash pulling with a cue to come back and get a snack which will cause the dog to come back voluntarily to get a snack once it begins pulling.

• Walk and train: A good way to keep your dog from getting distracted while waking is giving him a task to work on. For example, you can ask your dog to sit approximately every half of a kilometre or when there is a landmark like a driveway and then reward your dog with a treat when it does so. Soon your dog will start waiting for you to ask it to sit which will cause your dog to keep looking at you which will diverte his focus and keep it from pulling on the leash.

• Teaching a watch cue: Teach your dog the watch cue because then it can be asked on walks to look at the owner and if it's looking at the owner, then the dog can not be pulling ahead. This is good for dogs who are easily distracted or reactable. To teach your dog the watch cue, it is necessary to start in your home with no distractions and make some sort of noise to get your dog to look at you. When it does that then make sure to give it a treat. After this repeated a couple of times your dog will realise that when you make any sound if it looks at you they will get rewarded with treats. Once your dog is consistently look at its owner then start saying watch or any specific word instead of making any noise. Once the dog has mastered the watch cue, try it inside with distractions and once it has mastered that, try it outside with no distractions.  

Using a trainer collar/harness: There are some tools which can help the owners control his/her dog during walks however these tool should only be used to help in training not replace training as many people get dependent on the tool. The aim should be to be able for the dog to walk properly. One of these tools could be a front attaching harness which instead of attaching to the back connects in the front at the chest area. This allows the leash to be self correcting so whenever the dog starts pulling he gets turned around in the opposite direction.

Important things to know when crating a dog:

• Although many people see crates through a human lens of being locked up, dogs actually enjoy being in small enclosed places and will consider a place for them to be themselves and a place to relax which can provide them a feeling of security.

• Crates can help prevent dogs from chewing and destroying certain items or stop accidents while the dog is being housetrained and can be an easy way to transport dogs in cars.

• However, If crates are used incorrectly then it can cause a dog to feel trapped. In addition, for some dogs such as certain dogs with separation anxiety crates are not an option. 

• While crates can be used to manage behaviours they should not be used to punish dogs as this will cause the dog to associate the crate with negative things such as punishment. Using treats to convince a dog to go in the crate until they go in on their own will ensure a positive association. Also in order to ensure the dog views the crate positively make sure the dog enters with a relaxed mindset. For example, if the dog is put in a crate while they are playing with something they will want to go out and continue playing but if the dog is put in the crate while they are calm they will associate the crate with relaxation.

• Don't leave any dog in a crate for too long as a dog who spends all day in the crate will not get enough exercise or human interaction which may lead to depression or anxiety. To fix this problem a pet sitter or a daycare facility may be useful. Crates are not the only tools that can be used, you can also use a tether which gives the dog a little space to move in but prevents them from wandering off.

• Puppies under 6 months should be taken out of their crate every 4 or 5 hours as they can not hold their bowel that long even during potty training. 

• Crate a dog until it can be home alone without accidents or destructive behaviour. You can allow your dog to go from a crate to an enclosed area of the house until they are ready to be left home alone with full access

• It is recommended to have a comfortable bed in the crate as the crate should always be comfortable. However some dogs will destroy dog beds as many dogs prefer to sleep on the ground so it is a matter of trial and error.

• The door of a crate should always be open when you are with a dog to allow a dog to easily enter it when they need a safe space. When the dog enters the crate when you are home that may indicate that the dog needs some alone time. Ensure that visitors and kids know this and leave the dog alone.

• Ensure that the dog does not wear anything while in the crate such as a collar because if it gets caught in the crate the dog may strangle.

Choosing the right crate:

• There are 3 types of crates which are a plastic crate, fabric on a collapsible rigid frame crate, and collapsible metal pens.

• For dogs that prefer to sleep in the dark, it is recommended that they sleep in a kennel or airport style crates as those are more enclosed. For regular dogs it is recommended to sleep in wire dog cages.

• Crates should be comfortable, durable, and flexible with the training the dog is doing.

• Crates should be large enough that the dog can stand up and turn around in. 

• If your dog is growing, ensure the crate you buy accommodates the potential adult size.

Training process: 

• Crate training can take different amounts of time depending on your dog’s age, temperament, and past experiences. 

• It is important to ensure that crate training should be taken in a series of small steps and not to go to fast.

Steps: 

1. Introduce your dog to the crate: Put the crate in an area that your family spends a lot of time in. keep a soft blanket or bed in the crate. Ensure that the door is always open to let the dog explore the cage at their own pace.  Some dogs may be naturally curious and may sleep in the cage right away. If the dog you are crate training isn't then first bring them over to the crate and maintain a cheerful tone of voice. Ensure that the door is open and secured so that it won't hit the dog on the way and scare them. Secondly, encourage the dog to enter the crate by dropping some small treats/foods near the crate, then drop treats just inside the crate and finally drop treats deep inside the crate. If they refuse to fully go in then crate at first, that is normal and do not force them. Continue tossing treats (or if treats do not work toys) until the dog calmly goes all the way in the crate to get the treats or the toys. This step may take a few days or a few minutes depending on your dog.

2. Feed your dog meals in the crate: after introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding your dog its regular meals near the crate which will create a positive association with the crate. If your dog readily enters the crate, place the meal at the back end of the crate. If the dog remains reluctant to enter the crate, put the meal as far in as the dog will go in calmly. Each time you feed the dog, put the meal a little further in the crate. Once the dog is eating calmly in the crate you can close the door while they are eating. The first time this is done ensure that you open the door as they finish their meal Every time afterwards, keep the door closed a little longer until they are staying in the cage after their meal for approximately 10 minutes . If the dog begins to whine to be let out you may have extended the time too fast then the next time, leave them for a shorter period of time.

3. Practice longer crating periods: If your dog is eating their meals regularly with no fear or anxiety then the dog can begin to be confined in the cage for short periods of time while you are home. Some strategies you can follow is to call them over to the crate and give them a treat or give them a voice cue to enter such as “crate”. Make sure to encourage them by pointing into the crate with a treat in hand. When the dog enters the crate, make sure to praise them and close the door. Afterwards, sit quietly near the crate for 5-10 minutes and then go to another room. After that, return and sit quietly for a little bit and then release them. Repeat this process while gradually increasing the time you leave them in the crate.

4. Crate your dog when you leave: Once your dog sits in the cage for 30 minutes mostly by itself then begin to leave them crated when you are gone for short periods of time(. Put them in the crate using regular commands and a treat. It might be beneficial to leave them in with a few of their favourite toys in the crate. Make sure to not put your dog the moment you need to leave, leave them there from 5-20 minutes before you leave. Don't leave them for much longer than that(. When you leave, don't act emotional and keep the farewell brief by praising your dog with a treat and then leaving quietly. This step may take days or weeks.

5.  Crate your dog at night: Once your dog is able to sit in the cage for 30 minutes mostly by itself without any issues then begin to also leave them crated during the night. Get them in the crate using the commands they have already learned and a treat. It might be beneficial to leave the crate near where the owner sleeps especially if the dog that's being trained is a puppy. This is because puppies may need to whine to indicate to the owner that they need to use the bathroom which is important for the owner to hear. Older dogs should also be kept near the where the owner sleeps initially in order for them not to associate the crate with social isolation. Later on once your dog is used to sleeping in the crate you can move it to where you would want to be however sleeping near your dog helps strengthen your relationship. This step may take days or weeks.

Potential problems: 

Whining: If the dog whines or cries while in the crate at night and if the dog has not been rewarded for whining in the past then try to ignore the whining. If the dog is trying to test you then they will probably stop soon.  However, Ensure to never punish them for whining. However if the dog continues to whine, use the phrase they associate with relieving themselves. If they respond and seem excited, then take them outside,  while ensuring to keep it short and to the point. If the steps were followed properly, this issue is less likely to occur. If the problem becomes unmanageable then the training process may have to be repeated. 

Separation anxiety: Using the crate as a solution for separation anxiety won't solve the problem. Even if it stops your dog from being destructive to items, the dog may injure itself while trying to escape).           

What is separation anxiety?

• Many dog parents complain about dogs being destructive when they are alone. Some common behaviours in these situations could include barking, howling, chewing, digging or trying to escape. When these problems are accompanied by other distressed behaviours such as drooling or anxious behaviours when the owners are about to leave the house, this can be an indication of separation anxiety. Separation anxiety occurs when dogs become upset because of separation from their guardians or people they are attached to. Some dogs suffering from separation anxiety become agitated when their owners are preparing to leave. Others seem anxious or depressed prior to the owners leaving or while the owners are leaving. Some dogs try to stop their owners from leaving. Typically, right after a dog with separation anxiety is left alone they tend to begin barking or other distressing behaviours. Some dogs may attempt to escape, which can be extreme and can lead to self injury and household destruction especially near exits. When the owner comes back the dog acts as if it has not seen the owners in years. It is important to teach the dog to at least tolerate being alone.

Common symptoms of separation anxiety: 

• Urinating and defecating when being alone or without its guardian. 

• Persistent barking and howling when left alone or without its guardian and seems to only be caused by being alone.      

• Chewing on household items or places when left alone or without its guardian. This tends to be near exit points and may lead to accidental self harm such as broken teeth.

• Escaping from a certain area where it is not with its owner..     

• Some dogs walk in a fixed path and in a certain pattern when left alone or separated from their guardians. Some of the dogs walk in circular patterns while others walk back and forth in straight lines. 

• When left alone or without its guardians some dogs defecate and then consume it. 

Why do some dogs develop anxiety: 

There is no conclusive evidence on this subject. However, generally dogs who have been adopted from shelters tend to develop this behavioural issue more than dogs who have been raised by one family since puppyhood. This has caused professionals to believe that loss of an important person may lead to separation anxiety however separation anxiety may be caused by less drastic changes. Below is a list of potential causes of separation anxiety. 

1. Being abandoned or surrendered to a shelter or given to another family. 

2. An abrupt change in schedule in terms of when or how long the dog is left alone.

3. Moving into a new resident with the same guardians. 

4. Death or absence of a certain person in a dog's life (although the rest of the people stay with the dog).

Medical problems to rule out first: 

Before attempting behaviour modification for separation anxiety with a dog, see a veterinarian to rule out medical issues. 

• Some dog’s house soiling is caused by incontinence, a condition where a dog leaks his bladder. Some dogs do not notice that they have soiled(ASPCA, “Separation Anxiety”). This can be caused by a range of medical conditions such as a urinary tract infection. 

• There are a number of medications that cause frequent urination and house soiling. If a dog is taking medications, you should contact its veterinarian to see if the medicine they are taking may cause these issues. 

Behaviour problems to rule out: 

• Submissive or excitable urination: Some dogs urinate while greeting people, playing, physical contact or while being reprimanded/punished This can be accompanied by certain submissive behaviours such as holding the tail low and exposing the belly. 

• Incomplete house training: Dogs who occasionally urinate in the house may not have completed house training. The dog’s house training might have been inconsistent or it involved punishment which led to the dog being scared to urinate in front of its owner.

• Urine marking: Some dogs urinate in the house because they are scent marking which is done by urinating small amounts on vertical surfaces.

• Juvenile destruction: Some young dogs destroy household items however it also should occurs when the owners are there.

• Boredom: Some dogs need mental stimulation which may lead them to become destructive when alone because they are trying to find something to do. These dogs don't usually appear anxious 

• Excessive barking or howling: Some dogs bark or howl due to certain things in their environment like unfamiliar sounds and sights but they do this while their owner is home.

Treatments of separation anxiety for mild cases

• Counterconditioning might help reduce or resolve the problem in mild cases of separation anxiety. Counterconditioning is a treatment process which helps an animal change their fearful, anxious, aggressive reaction to a relaxed one. This is done by associating the sight of something the dog fears with something the dog loves. Counterconditioning will lead the dog to learn that whatever he fears is actually good for it. Specifically in the case of separation anxiety, this treatment focuses on developing an association between being alone and good things like treats/food. This can be done by giving your dog a toy full of treats such as the KONG toy which will take it at least 20-30 minutes to solve. Make sure to ensure your dog only has access to the toy while it's alone. This should work on mild cases as more severe cases tend to not eat when they are not with their owner

Moderate and severe cases of separation anxiety: 

• Moderate and severe cases require a more complex desensitisation and counter conditioning program which can be tricky to carry out.

• In these cases, it is recommended that a dog is left alone for short periods of time that do not produce anxiety and then to gradually increase those periods of time over a couple weeks. During desensitisation and counter conditioning programs, it is necessary to ensure the dog does not begin to feel fear or the procedure will backfire and the dog will become more frightened. A professional's help is needed because a treatment is dependent on the pet’s reaction and these reactions need to be properly deciphered by a professional. Make sure that the trainer/vet/expert that is helping you is qualified to help in this issue as not all vets are trained to help with this issue.

Important tipsL 

• Never leave your dog alone while not actively treating their separation anxiety as an important part of the process is to never let them feel fear so if possible take them with you if not leave with a trusted adult/sitter or a daycare.

• Providing a lot of mental and physical exercise is a vital part in treating this issue as mental and physical exercise can enrich the dog's life, decrease stress, and provide an appropriate outlet for the dog to release its energy. In addition to that, a dog tired from mental and physical exercise has less energy to worry. Try to provide them with lots of mental and physical exercise before leaving them alone. 

• The use of medications may greatly help your dog especially if they have a severe case of separation anxiety but ensure to consult with a veterinarian before doing so.

• Never scold or punish a dog with separation anxiety as this may lead the dog to feel more distressed and the issue could get much worse.

Crate training works great for some dogs but can feel scary for others, especially for those with separation anxiety. To decide if a dog should be crate trained, observe them in a crate and see if they show any distressed behaviours. If it does then crate training is not for that dog. Another option is to put a baby gate for the dog, limiting them to one room.

What is sibling rivalry? Why does it occur?

Sibling rivalry or fighting amongst dogs in the same household tends to stem from normal competitiveness amongst dogs of similar age and sex or from adolescent dimonace struggles or both. Competitiveness among siblings may be a competition over resources such as toys. For example taking a toy from another dog signals a higher pack position and therefore dominance. 

How to deal with sibling rivalry?

• If no serious damage is done during the fights then interference can do more damage than good especially if it favours one of the dogs, these struggles usually should be allowed to work themselves out.

• If the fighting is constant then use obedience to enforce time outs.

• It helps if you incorporate a lot of exercise in their lives as the more tired they are the less likely they are to fight. 20-40 minutes of aerobic exercise a day is recommended depending on the breed.

• Train the dogs as previous training will be helpful in enforcing your will.

• If you do have to break up a fight, you must always support the supposedly dominant dog as supporting the underdog will only increase fights especially when you are not around.

• If one dog is dominant, always give it food and attention first. 

Steps for time outs: 

1. During the beginning of the fight, startle the dogs to get their attention and then take each dog to a different place and enforce long stays (up to 30 minutes). This will teach the dogs that fighting leads to long boring stays. 

2. When the dogs are calm, release them with the OK command. If another fight occurs repeat the first step.

3. When a fight happens, ensure that you stay calm and ensure that you don't yell or get mad as this is not a sign of a leader and will cause your dog to stop viewing you as a leader.

4. Don't assert dominance physically rather use obedience and longer stays to assert your control over the dogs. Dominating a dog physically will only cause the dog to want to fight you more. 

Strategies to implement to help with sibling rivalry: 

1. Implement the “no free lunch” program with both dogs. Don't give any free affection to the dogs as they can compete over it. Do not allow yourself to become a possession to fight over. Use obedience to control them for a while to assert your dominance. 

2. Remove all toys from any common areas. Don't allow them any rawhides or bones. 

3. Use obedience to exercise with the dogs. Play with each dog separately. You can keep the other dog in a sit stay or down stay and enforce it while you work with the other dog which is best accomplished by tying the dog’s leash to a post or fence

4. Feed separately at first then slowly start feeding them together

Use the stay command before releasing them to eat and ensure that they do not go to each other’s bowls. If they try to do that, reprimand them and lead them back to theirs. Keep the leashes attached if necessary.

Dog anxiety can affect all breeds but affects each dog differently. If unusual levels of anxiety are left unchecked, a dog can develop an anxiety disorder, which can negatively affect a dog’s life.

Main causes of anxiety in dogs: 

• Fear related anxiety is caused by loud noises or unusual noises, strange or unknown animals or humans, new or strange environments, and specific situations like the vet's office. Although most dogs have short reactions to these types of stuff, more anxious dogs get impacted more.

• Separation anxiety is when dogs are unable to be comfortable when left alone. 

• Age-related anxiety affects older dogs and is related to cognitive dysfunction syndrome as dogs with this condition start to lose their memory, their ability to learn, what they have learned, their perception, and their awareness, which leads to anxiety. 

Symptoms: 

Some of these symptoms may occur during the occasional anxiety causing events but if they become recurrent, then that can indicate that your dog has an anxiety disorder.

• Aggression (The most dangerous)

• Urinating or defecating in the house

• Drolling

• Panting 

• Destructive behaviour 

• Depression 

• Excessive barking 

• Pacing 

• Restlessness 

• Compulsive behaviours 

  Treatment: 

• The best way to treat anxiety is to get help from a veterinarian who will help you come up with a treatment plan made specifically for your dog which usually includes training, preventive strategies and in some cases medications. 

• There are some strategies that owners can do by themselves.However it is best to get the help of a professional dog trainer before using any approach for your dog. 

• One of them is counterconditioning which aims to change your dog's response to anxiety by replacing the negative behaviour with a more positive behaviour like sitting.

• Another training strategy is desensitisation where the owner introduces the dog to the source of anxiety in small doses and in a decreased intensity. 

Prevention: 

• Understanding body language is very useful to help prevent anxiety as knowing when your dog is scared or anxious helps you avoid negative experience.

• Proper socialisation can help prevent the development of anxiety as it can help avoid an exaggerated outcome to new people, animals, or places and helps your dog become a proper canine citizen. 

• Obedience training can help prevent and manage dog anxiety as it lays the foundations of a healthy relationship between dog and owner and ensures trust between them. It also helps make socialising with people easier. 

If a dog’s anxiety is caused by certain things such as large groups of dogs then avoid these things if possible.